Thailand - Phi Phi: A Conversation With A Tsunami-Surviving-English-Speaking Thai-Scuba-Dive-Master

Aeg.

He is only 26 years old.

He started scuba-diving at the age of 13, and is now a renowned Dive Master (the highest Scuba Distinction)

He survived the Tsunami. What could be worse is that he witnessed it.

He, along with his friends saved 3 lives, from the rubble. Here's the fascinating story...

It was a 26th December, the day after Christmas. Half of Phi Phi (which basically means all the foreigners, which means all the back-packers from the west) was hung over from what was probably a drunken, late, late "Celebrating Jesus" night. Aeg was one local included in that list.

Aeg worked as a Scuba Diving/Snorkeling Tour organiser, and was damn good at his work. He was so good, that the local people held mini-rebellions to stop him from doing well, and taking away all the 'business'. Business there is tourism. It is the only source of income, and Aeg was taking most of it away. So the Village Chairman called a special meeting comprising all the locals and they reached a conclusion - Aeg needed to cut down on his brilliance to allow others to reap at least some benefit. He followed orders, and won the respect of the town, and well everyone knew him.

However, 26th December, 2004 was a day off for Aeg, and God indeed blessed him with that.That day, at approximately 10 A.M. two monstrous waves, one 12 metres high, the other 4 metres high crashed, crushed and crunched the neck-like heart of Phi Phi. Imagine, these two beaches were like two boomerangs stuck together forming a holy-grail-like structure. Both the beach-sides were exposed to the ocean, and hence both sides were exposed to this monster. But the 12 metre wave got the lion's share of the spoil as all the rummage it caused was transferred towards the other end. Imagine, again, you are sitting on the beach, calm, observing the waves. Then, quite out of the blue, you see, this large unorthodox wave from a distance, and get amused. It then processes and this confusion turns to nervousness, 'What the hell is that wave doing?' and then sheer panic engulfs you, just as the wave is going to engulf you. You run, but there is no where to run. You cry for help. You start looking for help. You see the wave coming at you. You try to hide? Ha Ha. For 4 minutes this monster hunted its prey. Aeg was not on the beach, he was asleep, in his house, on the hill, away from this. Thank God.

But when something like shakes the hell out of your island, you don't sleep for much longer. This earth-shattering Tsunami opened Aeg's eyes in more than one way. He stepped out into the open, and what he observed shook him up just like the Tsunami had shaken the life out of the village. He saw dead people hanging from trees, lifeless, but with eyes wide open, with glaring death written all over them. There were piles and piles of wood, beneath which, lay people, with their hands, ears and feet sticking out. The wave sucked bodies back into the ocean, and it was no longer a salty blue ocean, but a bloody reddish one. People mourned the loss of their loved ones. Shrill cries that can tear your ear-lobes open not because of the sound, but because of the agony that comes in chorus, resonated in the air. Aeg saw destruction at its prime. Trauma, rage, anger, distress, sorrow, pain, hopelessness, helplessness, defeat and death buzzed in his mind. He couldn't take it. He rushed back home, one place that was safe. He needed to recollect himself, needed to find his friends - he needed to know what to do. After locating his friends, they started a mini-operation of their own. Pull out any damn thing that breathes or moves from the rubble! This was not easy. Aeg, along with his friend, saved two human lives. They gave two living, breathing souls another opportunity to live.

But he lost almost everything. 4 of his close family members were missing and still are. His shop, his work all taken away by the wave. As he was a Professional Dive Master, he had videos and pictures of his exploits. All of it was taken away in those 4 minutes. His laptop, his scuba-diving gear which is shit expensive - everything the wave took away. 3,000 people lost their lives that day in Phi Phi, and a major chunk of that number were foreigners.

From that day on, Phi Phi was almost deserted. There was no major help coming in from the Government. Yes, some World Aid did drift in, but that takes time, and Phi Phi wasn't the only place affected. Aeg, and his friends started a recovery mission. Everyday they went to Phuket, got some medical supplies from the hospital, mainly gloves and masks, and started the ‘cleaning’ process. What Aeg found most useful, was not the Government, but the international contacts he had made from his Scuba Diving clients. They came from all over the world, and donated large sums of money to help Aeg set up his business again, and to restore some order in the chaos that the Tsunami had left behind.

It took 6 months for Phi Phi to recover from this disaster. The problem Phi Phi was facing was that, due to this catastrophe, none of the locals wanted to do business there. So Aeg and his friends, started building shops from scrap, to forcefully welcome these locals back on to the island. This recovery was a done collectively by all the people of the islands. It was a time of mourning, but also a time of unity and fraternity among the people there.

For Aeg, it was one of those major events that occur in our lives, that changes us completely. The Tsunami changed him, for the better. Before the Tsunami, yes he was married, but he had this youthful exuberant arrogance, which he admitted openly. But the Tsunami taught him responsibility. It taught him to look beyond materialism and money, and into the people around him, to care, to love. It made him, in his words, a 'man'. That, to me, says a lot. Experiences like the Tsunami can be devastating, but the education through something as colossal as that cannot be taught in school. Also, it's how much we suck or draw out of these experiences that shape our entirety. Aeg is still some what recovering from trauma. At times when he thinks about it, he can't sleep for days. After the Tsunami, Aeg could not sleep for 2 days, not because he did not want to, but because he couldn't. Could you have?

Aeg was our Phi Phi Island Sunset Tour guide/organiser/leader/boat-owner. He is a lovely guy, my mum fell in love with him, and wanted him as her second son. The service he and his crew gave us was excellent and genuine.

Thailand was great because of people like Aeg. The people I met, taught me so much, and fascinated me and opened my eyes to different aspects of life. It made me realise that I live in this bubble, this bubble in which I have a bunch of good friends, but that's not all. Those are not the only people. There is so much out there, so much to do, so many people to meet, almost 7 billion. The back-packers I met were all young, between 18 and 25 years of age, and not one was Indian. All of them were fascinating and had so much to offer. It exposed me to this other side, which I had never been properly exposed too, which I knew existed, which I yearned for, but never really got. It's true isn't it; most of us Indians don't do things like back-packing. Most of us end up with paunches to be proud off, if we don't already have one. Yes, there are numerous complications and parent/permission issues, but it's high time I burst out of this bubble. I don't know about you.

by Anish Malpani

Thailand - Phi Phi Islands

Phi Phi Islands are these 2 small islands constituting the southern part of Thailand. They are only reachable by a ferry. Secluded – yes, totally. Only two years ago, the devastating Tsunami knocked the life out of this little town, but today it is back on track, buzzing with an outrageous number of tourists. Back-packers, largely from the west (actually all, I could find not one Indian backpacker there) flock to this island like sheep, to perceive the breath-taking marine life that the ocean around the islands has to offer.

It sounds pretty laid back, well it's not. There is an 'ADSL High Speed Internet Service' connection every 2 metres, yes every 2 metres. Fake Movie DVDS/Music DVDS/Music CDS are rampant, with availability of movies which have not even been released in Thailand. 'The Devil Wears Prada' was available on the streets before country-wide release, for 10 Dhs, or 3 Dollars only. INSANE!

Apart from all that, and considering the fact that I, nor my parents, were seasoned scuba-divers, or snorkeling enthusiasts, we felt that we had almost wasted our time at the islands. But no, one evening made all the difference. We took the 'Sunset Tour' which allowed us to explore almost all of the Phi Phi Islands. It just happened to be, that in the tour, we were the only non-back-packers there, and my parents the only people over the age of 35, and I, only below the age of 20. That however did not matter, as our Phi Phi Island trip burst into life. The tour was hard core. We canoed and snorkeled in the open sea. Hell, I am proud to say that I swam in the rough sea in the middle of nowhere. After the canoeing and the snorkeling, we had to swim from our boat to a near-by cave. Then followed, a little bit of trekking against the sea, which was not surprisingly, rough, that evening (the whole full moon thing). This cave that we entered opened up into a pretty lagoon, and I felt I had entered into this new world, this world that had formed within a blink of an eye. The joy of seclusion and beauty did not stop there, this lagoon further opened up into the whitest of beaches. Clear, pure, but salty, the water gushed onto the purest of beaches, with a valley-like view of the setting sun. A spectacle of its own, an almost coliseum-like experience, it was truly...truly...wow. We soaked in every inch of the beauty, and cursed all that we could when we found out that our darned camera batteries were dead.

We laboured back, swimming back to our boat in the open sea (don’t worry, the amateur swimmers were given life jackets), where a slip of the toe could result in skull-cracking action against the hard but slippery stone. Yeah it sounds dangerous, and yes, to a particular extent it was, but that danger itself made it even more fun. Along with that, the tour organisers, a bunch of young 'lads' (as the Brit back-packers called them) were such hard-working and genuine people, and the made the evening even sweeter. They helped the poor swimmers, and the old, which only consisted of my parents (sorry mum, sorry dad) and were really really sweet, and with great bodies (that's for you girls :P).

All in all, that one evening made Phi Phi - WOW. I want togo again, and when I do go again I will learn Scuba Diving, get my license and enjoy the islands even more. Romit, remember our promise - if not Thailand, some place similar, definitely!

by Anish Malpani

'Angels With Broken Wings'

This summer, thanks to my great mum, I got an opportunity to volunteer for this extremely special summer camp organized by SFS (Special Families Support), a support organization for the less fortunate special children and their families. Before I get started, let me list out a few 'characters' that are vital for this post. Gulshan Kavarana - the founder of SFS, who to me is Gulshan aunty - the coolest aunty ever, with the biggest possible heart & Deepa - the organiser of the summer camp – who is very sweet and really hard-working.

My first day of the camp itself, was very enlightening. Gulshan aunty asked us, the volunteers, "Why are you here?" My confidence self, confidently uttered "We are here to help these special kids." "What rubbish!", was the reply, "These kids don't need your help, they can handle themselves." She told us that we were here to merely accompany them and to a certain extent, support them. We were there to be their friends, and to see them as our friends, and to bring smiles to their faces, and provide them and their parents an escape from the difficult world they live in. As it turns out, I love doing exactly that, so my enthusiasm levels have been very high for the past month, especially when I am with them. And quite obviously, I thoroughly enjoyed everyday of the summer camp, and am still enjoying every day - as the camp is still not over.

As days went by at the camp, Gulshan aunty found out (I think through me) that I could make 'stupid IT presentations'. So she asked me come over to her place and make a special presentation for her younger daughter, Zaara, her 'angel with broken wings'. I agreed to do it because I wanted to do it. I reached her place at noon and immediately got to work. I asked her, "Aunty, what's the objective of this video?" She said that, thorugh this video, she wanted to portray the beauty of her daughter, Zaara, and go beyond what most people saw in her - her disability. She wanted to delineate the fact that Zaara was a miracle, a gift from heaven, that she was their love. After that, the video almost sidetracked. I was keener on knowing what aunty and her family had been through and how Zaara had changed their lives, for the better. Gulshan aunty told me that Zaara taught them 'unconditional love'. She had taught them to see people for what they are, and not merely as they appear. Gulshan aunty said that Zaara helped her burst out of the cocoon that most of us are still enclosed in, the cocoon that family is everything. Zaara helped aunty to reach out to other people and other special families that were going through similar ups and downs. Thus, she instigated SFS - Special Families Support, an organization to bring together and support those familes that were a little less fortunate. 7 years of functioning, this organization has definitely changed and affected many people's life. Gulshan aunty continued that now, she is addicted to this organization. She just has to be around these kids, for they sustain her, and teach her values and lessons that no one else can. She told me that she loved being around the kids because they saw you for what you are, and not as what you appear (tall, thin, fat and so on) and told me that it's a pity that we can't see them like they see us. It's a pity that some of us cannot see them for what they are, humans with heart, soul, and love, love that oozes out because they have so much of it.

The video I eventually made was decent, but the experience I had with Gulshan aunty and her family overshadowed the video. It shattered my previously narrow-minded approach. It opened new horizons, and gateways of thought that I needed to dive into. As I absorbed every word that aunty told me, I actually learnt acceptance.

This summer camp has made my summer complete in its own way. Previously, I had never done anything like this, so I did not know what to expect. This camp took me by storm, for what I have learnt from this experience is boundless. It has opened my narrow mind to dimensions of thought that I would have never had. Adding to that, the pure satisfaction that I get from seeing smiles on their faces, and the joy that small things can bring them, is priceless. However idealistic and fake this sounds, I get satisfaction from their satisfaction, and that is the satisfaction and the joy that is priceless. This camp has made me realize that social work is necessary not only for the 'hours' that are required for your University Application, but for the learning experience that no other service can cater. I want to stay affiliated to SFS because the work done here is genuine and heartfelt. Nothing is forced, and we (as I can proudly say as now I am a part of this group) do things, because we want to do them. Thanks to Gulshan aunty for starting this organization and to Deepa for wonderfully organising this summer camp.

P.S. - This is not a corporate article typed to uphold and/or advertise SFS.

by Anish Malpani

No Way Zidane, No Way!

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=81Z_pNWjQbE]

How? How can a two-time world player of the year do something like that? How can this well-revered man, this calm-collected magician do that? 15 years of reputation-building hard work has crumbled away, in one moment of sheer stupidity and arrogance. Zizu, no sorry, Zidane (I cannot call him by his nickname anymore - he is no longer affable) was the least likely player to do something like that. Okay fine, if a hot-head like Rooney went and did something like that, it's understandable, but a man of such stature and repute to go and head butt an opponent- it's literally unbelievable. It highlights how one moment of sheer frustration and arrogance can almost destroy a career. It's shocking, and for me, extremely disappointing. It saddened me to see the Les Bleus' maestro walk off into the tunnel after that farcical and unnecessary action. I have no sympathy for him, but the sheer shock of such an act as eluded me, eluded everything, even the Italian victory (no offence to any Italian supporter).

Apart from that, the final of the World Cup finals was decent, better than the finals of the recent past. There was enough controversy and a penalty shoot-out always promises an exciting night. The French penalty was, according to me (and most others) not a penalty. The ex-great Zidane executed the penalty with a tinge of over-confidence and haughtiness, and then what saved him was well, luck. Otherwise the contest was pretty even. Italy some what dominated the first half, which was exceptional. The French kind off dominated the second half of the second half, and a bit of the extra time. Much of the latter part of the match was stale, apart from some head butting incidences. Anyway, Italy seems to deserve this victory, at least definitely over France. Italy have played good football. All credit to them for this historic win.

We have come to the end of another world cup. The 64 matches have just flown by, and I can't believe that this mega event has actually concluded. Apart from the opening ceremony, the closing ceremony and the Brazil disappointment, Germany 2006 has been fantastic. Some of the greatest world cup goals ever, created in some of the best stadiums in the world, in a tournament that highlighted globalization, the fraternity of men (at least off the field) and the rise of female football-lovers, this world cup has met, and in some cases exceeded all expectations. And that is always good. Isn't it?

by Anish Malpani

Brazil Out. Deservedly.

July 1st, 2006 - World Cup Quarterfinals: Brazil crash out, against a decent, Zizu-fuelled, France.

Frankly, Brazil played quite crap. Why? Because well 'it wasn't their day' - as most would say it, but no, it’s not that, it is because they just did not gel, and have not been really gelling through out the World Cup. Right from the start, Brazil weren't really tested with a strong opposition, an opposition that had a mighty midfield, or a classy defense. Mediocre teams like Australia, Croatia, Ghana and Japan, cannot really be called tests. France was the first real test for the Brazilians, and they stumbled, because, according to me, of social pressure. No, no, don't jump to conclusions; the loss wasn't because of social pressure on the players, but rather on their un-inspiring coach Carlos Alberto Parreira.

Now this is my theory. Read carefully. The wing backs are the most crucial players in building an attack, because they give width and pace to the side. Observe any great team of the recent ages, as in teams that play breath-taking football, at breath-taking pace, like Barcelona and Arsenal, the Champions League finalists for the season 2005-06. For Barcelona, the likes of Van Bronkhorst, Belleti and Oleguer, and for Arsenal, Ashley Cole, Lauren and Eboue have successfully taken on the wing-back positions. They offered pace, and most importantly vital options for the holding, and creative midfielders. With the ability to run at their opponents and float in dangerous balls, these wingers were responsible for most of the major attacks of their teams. Take for instance; during Arsenal's prime era (the unbeaten 49 game streak) Lauren and Ashley Cole made devastating over-lapping runs to crack open the opponents’ defense. Beautiful combination play involving Henry, Pires and Ashley Cole on the left flank is considered one of the most devastating and successful partnerships in the history of the English game. So, regarding flank play, did you see Brazil? Cafu was simply pathetic and uninspired. Roberto Carlos showed ineffective passion. Cafu spoiled the game numerous times with his slow, old feet and lethargic touches. Roberto Carlos blasted the ball aimlessly all over the pitch. No pace, no overlapping, no real support was provided by these wing-backs to the rest of the team.The other mistake that Mr. Parreira made was the inclusion of Juninho. Yes he is a good free-kick taker, but what you needed, Parreira, is an attacker, someone like Adriano. All Parreira-favourite Adriano needed was some patience from his coach. Also it took the Brazilian coach almost 80 minutes to get on the electric and youthful Robinho.

Now if I was the coach of Brazil:

1. I would never start with Cafu as the right-back. 36 years old, and worn out, Cafu was, according to me, not the ideal choice for the most stamina-requiring position. It took Parreira 340 minutes of football time to realize this, and then he brought in Cicinho for the last twenty minutes of what would be Brazil's final match in their 2006 World Cup Campaign. I would have started with Cicinho.
2. I would have given Roberto Carlos 2 games to prove his worth. But after seeing the potential in the substitute left-back Gilberto, I would have put him in instead. What these wing-back positions require is not experience, but youthful exuberance and hard-core pace. A 36 year-old right-back and a 33 year-old left-back definitely don't meet those parameters. Experience is required in positions like centre-back and the defensive-midfield, which was provided through the likes of Giberto Silva, Ze Roberto, Lucio and the brilliant Juan. In addition to that, Ronaldo and Ronaldinho provided enough 'experience' and skill in attack.
3. Emerson would have been my Captain.
4. Ronalidinho would have been made to play a little deeper and would have been allowed to be selfish with the ball. He is by far the best dribbler in the world, so why the hell do you want to prevent him from doing what he is best at - dribbling. In this World Cup, he looked more desperate to weave chipped-through balls and roam around aimlessly. I say, let him do what he is best at, and what he has proved with Barcelona all season long. I would have put him on the left-flank and let him dominate it completely and let the likes of Kaka, Ronaldo and Adriano drift in midfield and attack.

Anyway all these ‘would haves’ would hold some reverence only if I was coach of Brazil, which I am not, and I will probably never be in the course of my entire life. The Brazil loss was more frustrating than depressing. Lack-lustre, totally unBrazilian-like Brazil failed to even have one threatening shot on target. Parreira played his cards wrong. To be fair to him, how could he remove a household name like Cafu from the team? But then that's what separates ex-Brazilian Coach Scolari from him. Scolari refused to include the oldie Romario in the 2002 Brazilian World Cup squad despite huge public requests. If Parreira had been a little discerning, he would have observed that Cafu by no means had a good season with AC Milan and was growing terribly old. Also Parreira could have been a little more thorough in picking his starting 11 for the World Cup. The match against Japan, was clearly Brazil's best performance. Cicinho and Juan took centre stage then and provided another dimension to the Brazilian attack, through the wings. Didn't Parreira get that?

On the other hand, Zidane put on a master-class performance in frankly, quite a dull game. Apart from his 3 goals in the World Cup, Henry continued to struggle in a totally uncharacteristic performance by him. Defensively the game was beautiful, but then defense is not Joga Bonito, is it?

All in all, there are no excuses for Brazil's loss. They are to blame. I am a Brazilian fan and I feel that Brazil did not deserve to proceed, but hell, I wanted them too. I am heart-broken, and this heart-ache won’t allow me to support any other team for the remaining portion of the World Cup. So, good luck to France, Portugal (who could only scrape past England on penalties), Italy and Germany. Let's hope that the semi-finals and finals of this World Cup will be more exciting than the quarters.

by Anish Malpani